There is also a short movie clip you can view to see the effect of the new bearing. Azimut Roller Bearing for Dobsonian Teleskopes D = 320mm. I drilled mounting screw pilot holes, with the bearing in place, and blew the resulting sawdust away, but some got into the ball bearings! Note the start point. Orion xt10 Home | Orion xt10 Review | xt10 Assembly Photos | Newtonian Collimation I found that a combination of a largish diameter rubber washer super-glued onto a metal washer provided the extra gap filler, while the rubber washer allows some compression for when the central bolt is done up. One of the main concerns people have with making this modification is the potential for damaging the tiny digital encoder chips on the azimuth circuit board. After installing my own LS (Lazy Susan) bearing, plus "carpet" brakes I did a centre of gravity test to see how much tilt was required from dead level before the scope became unstable and started to move "downhill". Here is a shot of the bearing mounted and screwed into position:-. The lower line of the display corresponds to the Azimuth Encoders. google_ad_client = "pub-0336444338641900"; It describes the Encoders, cabling, computer controller, RS232 computer communications with the Intelliscope, discussion of using the Intelliscope with other telescopes, software that work swith the Intelliscope, tips and tricks and mechanical dimensions. google_ad_client = "pub-0336444338641900"; The upper line corresponds to the Altitude Encoder, which we will ignore. perhaps the central nut is not done up tight enough which allows too much wobble of the two base sections to each other. The brass bush should make it impossible to push the magnetic disc closer to the chips than is required. In the left photo you can see what I call the "clunk" gap created by the brass bush protruding above the top baseplate, between the top plate and the washer/nut of the bolt (although photo is sideways on). I think it is best not to rely solely on this method for braking, which is why I suggest the use of carpet brakes primarily. Addition of a Lazy Susan Turntable to the Azimuth Bearing. Getting exactly the right amount of tension to provide the perfect balance between freedom of movement, yet hold the scope steady in azimuth when stationery (i.e. When a full circle is complete and the reading shows +000.00 again, the pencil marks should be lined up again. With the Lazy Susan Bearing in place, accompanied by its high-tech braking system(! In accordance with Directive 2013/11 / EU, and Regulation no. Only occasionally is it due to actual damage. Rotate the telescope anti-clockwise slowly through a full 360 degrees. This shop uses cookies that are necessary for its correct function and, if necessary, also uses cookies from third party providers. don't expect it to be the same place every time). 3", 4", 6" and 12" circular Lazy Susan 5/16" thick from DoItBest.com, 3", 4", 6", 9" and 12" square style Low Profile Lazy Susans from Rockler, 225mm and 300mm diameter 8mm thick Lazy Susan Swivel Bearing product from Isaac Lord, High quality (more expensive) 9" and 12 3/4" diameter 1/2" and 5/8" thick Aluminum Lazy Susan Bearings from Lee Valley, http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetail.aspx?product=373&subCat=000, Maintaining and Modifying your Orion SkyQuest Dobsonian's Bearings by S. Waldee, Lazy Susan Swivel Bearing product from Isaac Lord, Concerns that tightening the central bolt may, Some folk still prefer Teflon or improving by replacing with. If you think they could be improved please let me know! The four-digit number (00E1) is raw encoder "ticks", and is not useful for this test. 524/2013 on Alternative and Online Dispute Resolution (ADR / ODR), online retailers are obliged to place an », Azimut Roller Bearing for Dobsonian Teleskopes D = 320mm. In the right-hand photo you can see a nylon washer that I placed over the brass bush to fill this gap, because whenever I lifted the base, the bottom section would drop down by this gap distance, making an un-nerving "clunk" sound. Copyright (c) 2016 www.Orion-xt10.com All rights reserved. The first two digits on each line denote the Amplitude from sensor chip 1 (showing hexadecimal value of 32), the second two digits are the Amplitude from sensor chip 2 (showing hexadecimal value B1). Undo the central bolt immediately and check everything over to see what you might have done wrong. The scope pivots vertically from horizon to zenith on these altitude bearings, one of which is shown in Figure 3-30. Problems only occur if poor assembly results in the two base parts becoming skewed off axis, i.e. Offer up the bearing over the pencil lines, and align it dead central as accurately as you can. I super-glued it because the central hole in the rubber washer was far bigger than the diameter of the bolt, so I needed to stop it moving around. IMPORTANT: Following the modification and re-assembly of the base, you should perform an Encoder Test which is one of the "Hidden" Functions detailed in section 12 of the Intelliscope COL Instruction Manual (page 22,23). I hope these instructions will be helpful. Often the simplest things work the best. (It's easier if the central bolt is removed completely - also note the rubber washer in the photo below is something I have added, and this is explained further below). With chipboard I think it is much better to carefully drill a pilot hole half the diameter of the screw you intend to use, and only as deep as the screw itself (no need to drill right through). The original large metal washer is now used in conjunction with the rubber washer super-glued to it, and this combination sit upon the top surface of the bottom baseboard, below the magnetic disc. The supplier of my Lazy Susan bearing was a UK company called Isaac Lord, the stock code was 300LS for a Lazy Susan Swivel Bearing No. First mark centre lines with pencil at 90° to each other exactly at the centre of the main central bolt hole, and far enough outward to mark the diameter of the bearing. Here is a side profile of the bearing, which is 8mm high, and results in the top base board being lifted about 1mm clear of the Teflon pads. Original order: This photo shows the bolt with its component parts in their original order before adding the LS bearing (ignore the additional parts in top-left of photo). I call it the CLUNK washer because its purpose is to stop a clunking sound when you pick up the Dobsonian base. The trouble with this idea is that when aligning the scope through the finder scope or eyepiece, you might find that the very action of operating a lever would actually cause you to move out of alignment again, because at high magnification the tiniest movement can cause the object being observed to move out of the field of view. I do sometimes feel that the Teflon pads and stiction approach, if maintained well, offers better control for wide viewing. The lock nut presses the fender washer down on the nylon washer to produce the friction you want. While this will depend partially on the quality of the bearing, this might also be due to me making a silly mistake when installing the lazy susan. Provided the line-up appears to be good, repeat the test rotating backwards and forwards several times and at different speeds, quite fast to prove that there is still no slippage.

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